DAMAGED LABEL: Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (750 ml)

This 2020 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon is big and structural—the Cabernet character (the "Cabernosity" of the wine) sits behind a parapet of oak, and the tannins are finely knit and tightly clenched around the fruit. Unpicking the structure from the finish reveals smoked cassis, resinous char, star anise and sticky lamb fat. It's a big-shouldered, muscly wine. This is fierce and concentrated and will live an eon, but in my opinion, it lacks the finesse and poise that I want to see in Cabernet Sauvignon. The oak regimen—15 months in French (24% new) and American (12% new) hogsheads—and regional makeup has something to do with that: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. There are a lot of good Cabernet regions in there, but in combination, they lose their identities—although, that has long been the appeal with this wine. Choose your own adventure.